Guide to Hiking Iceland's Laugavegur Trail

Your guide to an epic 4-day, 35-mile (55km) backpacking trip through the  Laugavegur Trail in Iceland. The Laugavegur Trail gets its name from Laugavegurinn, meaning "The Hot Spring Route" in Icelandic, and its variety of landscapes and terrains will give you an other-worldly experience. 

Preparation

Before you start hiking there are a few logistical items to consider. First, you'll need to decide if you're doing the traditional route which ends in Thorsmork, or continuing all the way to Skogar. This will determine how many days you'll want to spend on the trail. Both ending locations have regular buses back to Reykjavik.

If you want to camp along the trail, check that your gear is in good condition and can withstand heavy wind and rainfall. If you plan to stay in the huts, check the availability and reserve them online at Laugavegur Huts. The huts provide more shelter from the elements but require more advanced planning to secure. 

Book your bus tickets at the BSI Bus Terminal in Reykjavik, and store any luggage you don't wish to bring backpacking at one of the secure luggage lockers nearby.

Bring some cash for showers and snacks at the huts.

Hiking Plan

Backpackers typically hike this trek from North to South, beginning in Landmannalaugar and finishing in either Thorsmork or Skogar. 

Day 1:  Landmannalaugar --> Hrafntinnusker 

Approximately 7.5 miles or 12km

The bus from Reykjavik will drop you off in Landmannalaugar where you will find the trailhead for the Laugavegur trail. If you want to enjoy the hot springs, this is your chance as the geothermal pools on the rest of the hike are not swimmable. Otherwise, you can immediately get started on the trek (this is what we did). The Laugavegar hike begins with views of Mt. Hekla and several icecaps, and after about 2 miles you will lose the day hikers and feel truly off the grid. Day one is largely ascent, with the trail winding you past red and gold rhyolite hills, through canyons, and up volcanic rock. As you near the Hrafntinnusker hut, you might want to use poles or spikes as the footing can be challenging. 

Day 2:  Hrafntinnusker --> Álftavatn

Approximately 7.5 miles or 12km

Start the second day by hiking across the Hrafntinnusker plateau with expansive views of geothermal formations and springs, green plains, and depending on the weather - tons of snow. 

As you continue hiking over the rolling terrain, you'll have a few creek-crossings before hitting the ridge overlooking Alftavatn. The lake almost appears to be floating in the valley, and this point marks a notable change in the landscape toward lush green mountains and snow. This section is mostly a descent, and you might consider using trekking poles. Soon, you'll arrive at the Álftavatn hut near the lake. 

Evening hikes to check out:  Walk the Álftavatn Lake trail or hike up to Bratthals summit on the South side of the lake.

Day 3:  Álftavatn --> Emstrur / Botnar

Approximately 9.5 miles or 15km

Day three on the Laugavegur trail will take you through a black volcanic rock desert. As you pass lush green mountains surrounded by endless black rock, you’ll feel like you've left this planet. When you arrive at your destination for the evening, you can choose between the Emstrur or Botnar Huts, or choose a scenic spot to set up camp if you're going the tent route.

Evening hikes to check out:  Make the 1.5-2 mile trip to check out Markarfljótsgljúfur Canyon, a stunning gorge not far from the huts. 

Day 4:  Emstrur / Botnar --> Thorsmork

Approximately 10 miles or 16km

On the fourth and final day of the traditional hike, you will have a steep descent and a bridge crossing to leave the Emstrur Valley. As you continue on the trail past basalt columns, green gorges, and views of glaciers and into a lush forest. After a few more miles of hiking, you will arrive in Thorsmork, having completed the main Laugavegur trail, and meet your bus back to Reykjavik. 

Day 5:  Thorsmork --> Skogar  (Extended Hike)

Approximately 16 miles or 25km

Leaving Thorsmork, you will cross the Thorsmork Valley and begin the ascent up the Fimmvördurháls Pass. If you choose to break this up into two days, you can spend the night at the Baldvinsskáli hut about 8 miles from Thorsmork. Please be advised this hut does not have reliable water. Whether you spent the night or continued on, you will then descend down the trail to Skoga creek. The trail follows the creek until you reach the village of Skogar, where you can relax at a local cafe or with a well-deserved drink, and wait for the bus back to Reykjavik.

Weather

Be sure to check the weather forecast the week before your trip for the most accurate prediction. Summer in Iceland will give you long days with sunsets as late as midnight. The days are typically around 60º F (15º C) with nights dipping into freezing temps, and conditions range from clear and sunny days to harsh sideways rain and forceful winds. Be prepared for the elements. 

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